Training Manual

Do:

• Remove dust, soil, streaks, spots, finger marks or stains
• Buff dry for a clean and shiny finish
• Follow directions for all cleaning products
• Ask the client how to use, what to use and where it is stored

Don’t:

• Do not use faulty equipment
• NEVER use scourers, unless instructed to do so by the client

Buffing is a finishing method, not a cleaning method. It is usually something you will do after wet wiping a surface.

Buffing will provide a surface with that final shiny look eg. you might clean a stone benchtop with some detergent and warm water but then buff over it with a dry cloth to give it a nice glossy finish or you may have cleaned the metal legs of a chair but you will finish by buffing them to make them look shiny.

The AD Way: Use a dry microfibre cloth for buffing

Dust is composed of items like human skin cells, fabric fibres, pet hair, dust mite excrement, dirt and debris. Dust can actually cause scratching and damage to household surfaces.

A vacuum cleaner is great at removing dust without spreading it around into the air or onto other surfaces. Vacuum cleaners aren’t suitable for dusting all surfaces and may scratch furniture so you may need to consider other options. Feather dusters are great at getting in small and irregular spaces, making them good at dusting shelves without having to move everything. Inexpensive feather dusters may scratch surfaces that you are trying to dust, as the shaft of the feather can be quite sharp.

Acrylic dusters are great at getting in small and irregular spaces, making them good at dusting shelves and corners. Acrylic dusters still stir up some dust although it tends to be less than a traditional feather duster. Long handled microfibre dusters do an excellent job in those hard to reach places. Microfibre cloths do a great job at removing dust without stirring it up. They also come in a mitt form, which slips over your hand and makes dusting easier.

Paying attention to detail, without taking hours is the key!

• Do a final check particularly of the areas you have cleaned before you leave.
• Is there anything you have overlooked?
• Are all the glass/mirrors ‘smear free’?
• Have you emptied bins in the areas you have cleaned?
• Have you vacuumed and mopped behind doors and into corners?
• Plump up cushions on sofas and straighten magazines on coffee tables.
• Ensure you have closed all windows, turned off ceiling fans and locked doors.

Presentation Tips

A couple of very simple and quick tips:

• Check furniture/ornaments etc. are in original position
• Straighten doilies, tablecloths
• Tidy chairs around tables
• Tidy cushions and magazines
• Straighten mats and rugs
• Smooth doona/bed covers
• Put a nice ‘V’ in the toilet roll
• Hang towels neatly and match patterns where possible on towel rail
• Do a final check for smears, marks, & spots
• Buff dry for a clean and shiny surface
• Pay attention to the front entrance — FIRST IMPRESSIONS

• A box or small bowl of baking soda in the refrigerator, freezer, or any cupboard will keep away unpleasant odours. Similarly, baking soda will keep away garbage odours; sprinkle into the bottom of the bin, and then sprinkle again after you put a new bag in.
• To clean surfaces, sprinkle baking soda on a damp cloth, then rinse with clean water.
• To clean chrome or stainless steel, use a paste of 3 parts baking soda to one part water. Rub the paste onto the surface, then rinse with clean water and dry with a soft cloth.
• To remove scents from carpet, sprinkle with baking soda. Let stand for at least fifteen minutes then vacuum. Repeat as needed.
• For burnt-on food in the bottom of pots, or tea or coffee stains in cups, sprinkle with baking soda then add hot water. Let soak overnight; the dried on food will come loose much more easily.
• Replace half of each measure of laundry detergent with baking soda to keep clothing fresh.
• To remove grease stains, either add baking soda to the wash load or pretreat the stains with a baking soda paste.
• Baking soda increases the effectiveness of chlorine bleach. Add 1/2 cup to your laundry, along with the usual amount of bleach. To clean a drain, pour in half a cup of baking soda, then add half a cup of vinegar. Rinse drain with warm water.

NOTE: After cleaning with bicarbonate of soda, always rinse with clean water to avoid residue, and wipe with a dry cloth to avoid bacteria building up.

View the Essential Oils Table

Note: DO NOT use white vinegar on silk, acetates or rayons. Using vinegar could void warranties so always check with the client first.

Collar Ring: Scrub a paste of white vinegar and baking soda on shirts before placing into the wash cycle.

Dishwasher: Clean the dishwasher by running a cup of vinegar through the whole cycle once a month to reduce soap build-up on the inner mechanisms and on glassware.

Iron: Use 50/50 ratio of water and white vinegar added to the reservoir to clean out limescale. Rinse well.

Lint Preventer: Add 1⁄2 cup of white vinegar to the wash cycle to prevent lint from clinging to clothes.

Microwave: Clean the microwave by boiling a solution of 1/4 cup of vinegar and 1 cup of water in the microwave. Will loosen splattered on food and deodorize.

Perspiration Odour and Stains (as well as deodorant stains): Spray full-strength white vinegar on underarm and collar areas before adding them to the wash cycle.

Plastic Shower Curtains: Add a cup of white vinegar to the wash cycle to eliminate soap scum.

Toilet: Stubborn stains can be removed from the toilet by spraying them with vinegar and brushing vigorously. The bowl can be deodorized by adding 3 cups of vinegar. Allow it to remain for a half hour, then flush.

Washing Rinse: Add 1⁄4 cup white vinegar to the last rinse cycle in just about any kind of laundry to remove soap, prevent yellowing in whites, act as a fabric softener and static cling reducer. Follow this with a plain water rinse.

White and Bright: Add 1 cup white vinegar to a large pot of water, bring it to a rolling boil and drop in dingy white clothes and dishcloths and soak overnight to make white again.

It’s better to leave something you are not sure of than attempting to iron the garment and damage it. If you find it difficult to iron a particular garment or linen item just put it aside.

Ironing can be time consuming so make sure you confirm with the client what their ironing priorities are in case you do not have sufficient time. Always check with the client if they have a preference with the style of ironing, for example creases on shorts and long pants.

The steps provided below are to be used as a guide only as the client will have issued you with their particular requirements:

• Before you begin, adjust the ironing board to suit your height (the correct height is hip level). Turn the iron on and adjust it to the correct setting. Allow it to preheat before using it.
• Locate the tag on the garment you are preparing to iron. It will provide you with information about the material. Some clothes should not be ironed. Others have a very low tolerance for heat, so you’ll have to iron them at a gentle setting. Always refer to the clothing label for heat and ironing instructions.
• Using a pressing cloth helps to reduce the unwanted shine on fabrics.
• You can also dampen very creased items with a bit of water before ironing.
• Use the tip of the iron to work around buttons.
• If in doubt, iron inside out!
• Hang up or fold garments immediately after ironing them.

Watch: "How to Iron the Perfect Shirt"

Identify the Clothing to be Ironed

The client should have separated the clothing to be ironed from any other laundry they might have lying around. Consult with the client in order to clearly identify their requirements. It’s possible the client may request you to sort, hang, fold, organise or store clothing.

Guide for Ironing Different Fabrics

• Cotton: Iron slightly damp on the right side with hot iron.
• Linen: Iron damp on right side with hot iron.
• Silk: Iron slightly damp on right side with warm iron.
• Acrylic: If needed, press on wrong side with cool iron. Do not use steam or damp cloth.
• Acetate: Iron damp inside out with a cool iron.
• Wool (knitted): Turn the garment inside out and press dry or nearly dry with warm iron or steam.
• Wool (woven): Press dry on right side with a pressing cloth to avoid scorching, using a warm iron or steam iron.
• Nylon or polyester: Iron nearly dry, on the wrong side with a cool iron to prevent glazing.
• Transfers: Clothing with transfers or raised images should be turned inside out and ironed with a warm iron.

Storing the Iron

When you are finished with the iron, empty the reservoir completely and allow it to dry out. This will also help to prevent mineral build up and lessen the frequency with which you need to clean the reservoir. Remember that the water in the reservoir may be hot since the iron was turned on. Empty the water slowly by tilting the iron over the sink or laundry tub. Store the iron in an upright position in a location where it won’t be easily disturbed.

Watch: "How to use a Steam Iron"

As part of the client’s service, you may be required to make beds too. Remember to confirm with the client if they just want the bed remade with existing linen, or stripped and remade with clean linen?

Making the bed:

• Strip the bed removing all the existing linen.
• Make sure to remember the order of the bed linen eg. They may have an electric blanket, was it under the fitted sheet or under the underlay?
• If there is a mattress protector, smooth it out, running your hands from the middle outward to remove any creases or wrinkles.
• Put the fitted sheet on next. This will have elastic corners to hug the mattress. Make sure the corners of the mattress fit into the corners of the sheet, and tuck in any loose parts of the fitted sheet around the bed.
• Next is the flat sheet. Make sure it lies centred across the bed with an even drop on either side of the mattress, smoothing out the creases.
• Ensure that the cuff hem (the wider) of the sheet lies at the top, and turn down about 20cm.
• If the sheet is patterned the pattern side should face down onto the bed. If there is no pattern, the right side of the sheet should still face down onto the mattress (you can gauge this by checking the stitching of the sheet).
• Neaten the bottom edges of the top sheet by doing Hospital Corners.
• Tuck in the bottom edge. Pick up the side edge at the bottom corner and hold it out. Tuck in what is left hanging down at the corner and then let the edge fall and tuck it in as well. Repeat for the other bottom corner.
• Tuck in all loose sheet along sides of the bed.
• If the bed has a doona make sure you turn down about 20cm of the top hem before putting on the doona.
• If using pillow protectors always make sure the opening of the protector lies at the closed end of the pillowcase, this ensures that the sleeper does not get scratched.
• Next put on pillow cases, neaten the pillow within the inner fabric envelope stitched inside the pillow case.
• Make sure the pillows lie with the pillowcase openings facing the outside of the bed.
• Pillows can be laid upright against the head of the bed or flat. Do what makes the bed have that “finished look”.

Hospital corners

Some clients may ask you to make the bed using hospital corners.

It is called that because it’s the method used by hospitals (as well as hotels and the military). Hospital corners involve folding and tucking in your top sheet to create a smooth, sharp bed and keep it looking that way longer.

The process is really fast and easy but gives a professional finish.

Watch: "How to fold the oerfect fitted Sheets"

Microfibre is a polyester and nylon (polyamide) fibre that is used to make fabric. The fibre is split many times smaller than a human hair. This makes it a superior tool for cleaning and germ removal because it is able to penetrate cracks and crevasses that cotton cloths or paper towels are not able to reach.

The increased surface area of the fibres and their shape also allow them to absorb up to 8 times their weight in liquid. The fibres generate a static electric charge when moved across a surface that attracts dust and contains it, rather than spreading it around or releasing it into the air when dry dusting. Microfibre Cleaning Cloths are a revolutionary, environmentally friendly, and extremely effective way to clean.

Selecting Microfibre

Usually hard, non-absorbent surfaces are the best surfaces where microfibre is used. It makes sense to remove heavier built up grime from surfaces initially and then maintain the area with microfibre regime.

It is always a good idea to purchase a decent quality microfibre, but you don’t have to spend a fortune, basically what you can afford. Of course the well known companies like ENJO, Norwex and Interclean offer excellent, very high quality products, and you can be sure they will do an exceptional job. There are some very good lower priced products available in your local supermarkets like Woolworths or Coles, that will also do the job. If the surface is very greasy or very soiled, microfibre may initially not have the desired effect.

There are limits to microfibre. For example, in a bathroom with a tiled floor, there may be built up grime in the grout. A deep clean with steam to remove this initially will assist the following maintenance of microfibre system.

Benefits of Microfibre

Effective at capturing microbes: Several studies have determined that Microfibre is better than cotton at capturing bacteria. Tests proved that a cotton-loop mop reduced bacteria on the floor by 30%, whereas the microfibre mop reduced bacteria by 99%.

Prevents cross-contamination: Microfibre cloths and mops are available in different colours so that a colour-coding system can be implemented for specific uses. For instance with ENJO, yellow cloths can be used in bathrooms and green cloths can be used for kitchen cleaning. Better yet, the cloth may already be labeled with the correct area it should be used in.

Environmentally friendly: Studies have determined that the microfiber mopping system reduced the amount of water and chemicals required for cleaning.

Additional benefits

• No lint left behind
• Dries quickly
• No streaks
• No need for paper towels
• Cost effective
• Each microfibre cloth has 300+ uses, so if you clean once a week, you’ve got at least 6 years of use on any given cloth
• Washes easily

Dry Dusting

You can use microfibre cleaning cloths dry as a duster instead of using a cleaning cloth treated with chemicals or a (chemical) spray and wipe method. Depending on the size of the cloth you may want to fold it. This will give you multiple cleaning surfaces on one towel.

Damp Method

Microfibre is excellent to use damp. If it becomes wet, wring it out by squeezing it rather than twisting it in opposite directions. Microfibres can be damaged so look after your microfibre even when wringing it out.

NOTE: You don’t want it to be dripping as the towel needs to have the capacity to absorb whatever you’re trying to clean off the surfaces. Like with a dry cloth, when using a larger cleaning cloth it’s probably best to fold it to give you multiple new cleaning surfaces on the same towel. This damp method works best for cleaning bathrooms, cleaning appliances, wiping down kitchen counters, cleaning car interiors and hundreds of other cleaning applications.

Glass Microfibre

The absorbency of microfibre makes it great for cleaning windows, even when just using the cloth with water. Microfibre cleaning cloths hold up to 7 times their own weight in liquid which allows them to clean glass while leaving no streaks. This feature also makes them great for cleaning up spills. This will allow you to cut down on the use of disposable cleaning products like paper towels.

To use, spray a mirror with water then fold your cloth in half or quarters, keeping each surface flat as you use it and wipe over the glass surface. Turn sides as you need to.

Mopping with Microfibre

• Before you begin, sweep or vacuum floor. Use a clean microfibre mop and dampen it. You may have it pre-moistened or you can use a spray bottle or canister attached to the handle. Do not over wet it.
• Place mop head face down and attach base plate to it.

The AD Way is to mop in a figure of eight pattern whilst walking backwards, this ensures you don’t miss anywhere.

Washing and Caring for Microfibre

The fabric is very durable so it is safe to wash a quality microfibre product up to 500 times, if not more. Check your manufacturer’s instructions. For best microfibre cloth cleaning results follow these steps:

• Hot Wash: Hot wash microfibre cloths in temperatures of 60°C to 90°C.If your washing machine is not capable of washing at +60°C, soak the microfibre cloths in boiling water before to disinfect.
• Detergents: Regular detergents or powders may be used but are generally unnecessary as soiling and stains should not penetrate nylon or polyester fibres.
• Wash Separately: Avoid washing microfibre with other fabrics or wash in a delicates bag as microfibre attracts lint residue.
• Fabric Softeners/Bleach: AVOID FABRIC SOFTENERS AND BLEACH as these can damage the synthetic fibres.
• Drying: It is recommended that microfibre cloths are air dried as it will last longer. Microfibre dries relatively quickly. If you choose to dry your microfiber in a dryer do so on low heat or no heat and only dry with other microfiber products to prevent the mops or towels from picking up lint.

NOTE: Although Microfibre cleaning tools also absorb fat and grease and their electrostatic properties give them a high dust-attracting power, microfibre can still be unsuitable for some cleaning applications as it accumulates dust debris and particles. Sensitive surfaces such as LCD and plasma screens can easily be damaged by a microfibre cloth if it has picked up grit or other abrasive particles during use. 

Watch: "How to use Microfibre Cleaning Cloths"

The key to reducing household mould is reducing moisture where possible.

While bleach can kill off surface growth and spores on nonporous surfaces, it will not penetrate porous materials, contrary to claims made by several products on the market.

If the mould is growing on plaster or grout or wood it will kill mould on the surface, but not below it. Other options include:

Vinegar Spray

1. Pour a concentration of 80% vinegar to 20% water into 3 buckets
2. Use a microfibre cloth to dip into the first bucket and clean a patch of mould
3. Rinse the cloth in the second bucket then rinse again in the third bucket to ensure cross contamination doesn’t occur
4. Repeat this process until the mould is removed

Oil of Cloves

To clean mould from hard surfaces:

1. Dilute the pure essential clove oil and put it into a spray bottle. Mix ¼ teaspoon of clove oil per 1 litre of water
2. Spray the surface and then leave for 20 minutes
3. Wipe the surface clean and re-spray. Leave untouched as it will take 24 – 48 hours for the mould spores to die

SAFETY: Always test a small patch first to avoid damaging painted surfaces. Wear rubber gloves when handling, mixing or using clove oil, avoid eye & skin contact, and keep out of reach of children. Clove is highly irritating to the skin and must be diluted to concentrations less than 1% prior to use.

Tea Tree Oil

The smell of tea tree oil is very strong, but will dissipate in a few days.

1. Add 2 teaspoons of tea tree oil to 2 cups of water
2. Combine in a spray bottle, shake and spray on problem mould areas
3. Do not rinse as it lasts indefinitely

• Always sweep or vacuum the floor first, mops don’t pick up crumbs, dust and hair. Dust and dirt can scratch a floor
• Use a damp mop, not soggy one
• Change your water regularly
• Start in one corner of the room and work towards the exit
• Move the mop in a figure of 8 motion to ensure you cover the area
• When the mop looks dirty, dip and wring the mop
• Persistent marks may need another clean. Dampen the area with a bit more solution and let it sit for a few minutes to give the solution time to work. Mop up.
• Open up doors and windows to dry the floor
• If the floor shows streaks you may have to dry it with a towel as you go along
• If it’s a steam mop, use the mop following the manufacturer’s instruction

Watch: "Playlist: How to Guides"

Polishing is a method used on both wood and metal surfaces.

Depending on the surface you may be using a wax polisher, Silvo, Brasso, an aerosol spray or just a microfibre cloth. Evenly spread the polish over the furniture and remember to always polish wood surfaces by rubbing in the direction of the grain of the wood.

Always read the product labels regardless of whether the client has supplied the product or it is yours. There is a chance that it may not be the right cleaning product for the surface you are being asked to use it on. Product labels show:

• How to use
• What surfaces safe to use on
• Dilution ratios
• How to store and dispose

Always read labels. If a label doesn’t categorically state that a product is suitable to use on certain surfaces avoid using it. It is important to know the difference between multi purpose and multi surface products.

Most cleaning products don’t list all active ingredients however understanding the PH measure or being aware of hazards will help.

Acidic based products are beneficial for removing hard-water deposits, discoloration and rust stains. Acids can irritate and injure the skin and eyes so be careful. Clear white vinegar is a simpler version of acidic cleaning product. Citric or lemon juice is another natural substance used as an acid spotter, and mild bleach is used in the removal of many kinds of stains.

Neutral cleaners with a PH of 7, such as Morning Fresh, are usually safe on all surface types.

Alkaline based products help clean food spills, oils and grease. Common in baking soda, cream cleaners, laundry detergent, windex, bleach and oven cleaners, alkalines vary in strength and the stronger ones can cause burns. When reading labels, look for words such as Danger, Warning or Caution that provide some indication of a product’s toxicity. Danger or Poison is typically the most hazardous and may also be described as ‘corrosive’ or ‘may cause burns’. A warning label means moderately hazardous, and formulas with a Caution label are considered slightly toxic.

Products that list active ingredients of chlorine or ammonia can cause respiratory and skin irritation or toxic fumes if accidentally mixed together.

There are two things you should consider before you start scrubbing. Firstly, the surface you are trying to clean may have specific care instructions, and secondly, the product you will use.

Being aware of the surface will help you identify if the equipment and method you have been given is going to harm the surface. Be sure to read the product labels and follow the correct dilution ratios. Does the product need to be diluted or used full-strength?

When Scrubbing

• Work in a circular motion using light pressure.
• Avoid the temptation to press down with all of your strength when scrubbing as it’s often a waste of effort and can damage the surface. A light steady pressure, a circular motion, the right cleaner, and the right amount of water can tackle nearly any mess and preserve the beauty of the surface you are cleaning.
• Use a clean damp cloth to rinse the surface, thoroughly. Residue will attract more dirt and stains, so be sure to clean it all away.

Use another cloth to dry the surface completely. Surfaces that can’t handle exposure to moisture shouldn’t be scrubbed. This includes many wooden surface and unsealed/ungrouted tiles.

Spot cleaning is used when it isn’t necessary to clean the whole surface of something.

A client may ask you to spot clean their kitchen cupboards etc. What they mean by this is that they don’t want you to waste time cleaning the entire thing — just the spots that are obvious and need cleaning or wiping down.

NEVER use anything in a client’s home without the knowledge and prior consent of the client.

Blue tack: If you find blue tack stuck to walls or other surfaces the best thing you can do is put a lump of blue tack in the freezer for a while and then roll it over the blue tack you’re trying to remove. Tea Tree Oil will help in removing any last bits of sticky residue.

Candle wax: For walls or wood, place an ice cube into a bag and place over the wax until it is chilled. You should then be able to scrape it off with a plastic ruler.

Cobwebs: Can be removed using a long handled microfibre duster, vacuum cleaner or a cobweb broom.

Dirt: Most dirt can be removed using warm water with dishwashing detergent and a sponge or microfibre cloth.

Dust: Depending on your client’s preference and the surface, remove dust by wet or dry dusting with cloths, feather, wool or microfibre.

Fingerprints: Use some warm water with a mild detergent to wipe the prints off. If the fingerprints are on stainless steel, you can then finish with a bit of buffing with olive oil that will prevent future prints from sticking.

Grease: If a mild detergent in warm water or white vinegar and bi- carb soda doesn’t shift the grease you can put salt on to the grease spot and leave. Be sure to only use the salt to absorb the grease, as it can be corrosive to some surfaces.

Wipe off gently so as not to scratch the surface.

Mould: Different kinds of moulds grow on different materials. Certain kinds of moulds like an extremely wet environment. Other kinds of moulds may be growing even if no water can be seen. The general method for removing mould starts with a good vacuum of the surfaces. Scrub or brush the mouldy area with a mild detergent solution. Use a product that attacks mould spores like Exit Mould (follow manufacturers directions), vinegar or oil of cloves diluted.

Oil: If a mild detergent in warm water or white vinegar and bi-carb soda doesn’t shift the oil you can put salt on to the oil spot and leave. Wipe off gently so as not to scratch the surface.

Residue: Unless the surface is made of porous stone like marble, white vinegar will remove most residue left from cleaning products and detergents.

Rust: Whatever you do, don’t use bleach or any bleach containing products on rust; chlorine bleach can actually set rust stains. Rusterizer is organic, biodegradable and toxic free so is safe to use on almost any surface. It can also be used to remove calcium and lime deposits.

Sand: A good vacuum cleaner or hand held vacuum cleaner for those hard to reach places will help you get rid of sand deposits resting on fixtures and fittings.

Vacuuming is not just for carpets. The tools/attachments that come with vacuums are an efficient way to clean furniture. They can be used to remove dust or cobwebs from metal, and food or crumbs that have slipped under the cushions on lounge suites and chairs.

Vacuuming Carpets

• Vacuuming the carpet should always be the last job in that room.
• Do a “walk through” of carpeted areas – pick up clutter & large bits of debris before you vacuum.
• Select correct setting on vacuum for type of carpet you are about to clean.
• Remember you must use the correct vacuum head for hard surfaces or you can damage the equipment and the surface.
• Always remember – when moving items in the home, make sure you follow the correct manual handling techniques and ask for assistance with large and heavy items to avoid injury.
• Place items in a safe place whilst you are cleaning, and always remember where they belong.
• Carpets should be vacuumed at least once a week, but this depends on amount of traffic and the dirt.
• Remember to always vacuum behind the doors and under the mats.
• Ask for client consent but a light sprinkle of bi-carbonate of soda over the carpet prior to vacuuming is a good carpet refresher.
• Did you know that vacuuming diagonally across a carpeted floor puts less stress on the carpets fibres, and also leaves fewer vacuum marks?
• Pulled threads – Advise the client and do not pull or cut. Take care not to vacuum over these as you could damage the carpet further.
• Stain removal – do not attempt stain removal on carpets. We do not have the knowledge or expertise to do this and could cause further damage. Recommend to the client to consult Absolute Domestic’s carpet cleaning specialists.

It is likely that each client uses a different type of vacuum cleaner. You will have to get used to using a variety of styles and models. If you are unsure of how to use or empty a particular vacuum model, ask the client to show you.

White Magic is a melamine foam that has superfine eraser-like fibres that easily lift and trap dirt, so it effectively removes stubborn marks without the need for harmful chemicals. It is a highly unique cleaning product that uses only water to erase stubborn marks.

White Magic can be used on any smooth and non-porous area of the home or office, but as with any product or cleaning cloth always read instructions. It makes light of so many cleaning tasks:

• It erases set in dirt around the kitchen. It is fantastic on your stainless steel sinks and around plug holes
• Fantastic at breaking through tough bathroom soap scum
• A whizz at removing scuff marks and dirt from walls, floors and doors
• It will even tackle ground in dirt on your outdoor furniture
• Take care on all painted or polished surfaces and test a small unseen area first because it can lift the colour and leave a lightened mark on dark surfaces

Watch: "How to Clean with a White Magic Eraser"

Involves using a wet cloth, sponge or a manufactured wet wipe to clean a surface. Much of the surfaces you are cleaning will simply require a wet wipe over to keep them looking clean.

Buff with a dry cloth to avoid leaving water marks.

The first step toward efficient washing is to know what you are washing. There are many different methods to sorting. Although the client will sort the garments for you it’s important for you to understand the process so you can identify when a sorting error has been made. There are two important considerations here: what kind of fabric is it (as in sheets, towels, bathrobes, napkins and rags) and what colour.

Reading the labels on each item that you have been given to launder will prevent any major disasters occurring like colour stains or shrinkage and if in doubt, leave it out.

Whites: Whites are sorted separately because we want them to stay white. One red sock that isn’t colourfast can turn an entire white load pink. More often than not whites need a warmer water temperature than other clothing to ensure proper cleaning. Whites can be washed with a long wash cycle and full spin with hot water and bleach.

Reds and/or brights: Colourfast pinks, purples, reds, and oranges can be mixed together to make a full load. Warning, red clothing is notorious for losing its colour and bleeding onto other fabrics. When in doubt, wash reds separately. Other bright colours can fade or lose their colour onto other lighter clothing. They can be washed on warm or cold short wash cycles.

Lights: Lights should be washed in warm water and include your pastels, creams and light greys. They can be washed on warm or cold short cycles.

Darks: In the dark colours, separate t-shirts and jeans from lighter weight items like blouses and dress shirts. These can be washed in warm or cold water depending on the type of material. Items like jeans and dark socks should be washed on a long cycle with a full spin. Permanent press trousers and dark t-shirts should be washed on a shorter wash cycle with a low spin to reduce the possibility of wrinkles.

Specialty items: These are things that have to be washed separately, are not colourfast, can’t be dried, or have otherwise special instructions that keep them separate.

Brights and coloured: If your items are colourfast, (most clothing will be) you can combine colour items together.

Wool: Because wool is a natural fibre, it is prone to shrinking in warm or hot water and with agitation. Some wool is machine washable. If not, dry clean wool items or wash them by hand in cold water with a mild detergent and never toss wool items into the dryer unless the label says otherwise.

Cotton: Most of the cotton purchased is pre-shrunk because it is very prone to shrinkage, especially with hot water and a lot of agitation. Once pre-shrunk, cotton is more durable and can be washed in the washing machine in either cold or warm water. To be on the safe side, hand wash any new items in cold water with a mild detergent the first time.

Silk: Dry cleaning is recommended much the same as it is with rayon, but hand washing in cold water with a mild detergent is usually okay as long as the dye is colourfast. Always read the label.

Linen: It is usually recommended that you dry clean linen but you can often get away with hand washing it in warm water with a mild detergent or machine washing on a gentle cycle. It irons nicely to a crisp fabric. Linen is often used for tablecloths, sheets, and curtains.

Acrylic: Acrylic dries easily and is machine washable. Acrylics are popular because of their ability to retain their shape and texture after washing and drying, however they can pill easily. Static cling also happens frequently with acrylics.

Nylon: Nylon is easy to wash and take care of. Because nylon resists absorbing moisture and dries easily, it is often used for swimwear and active wear. It is recommended to wash nylon in cold water.

Polyester: Polyester dries quickly and can be washable or dry clean only, so check the tags. Polyester is often used as a blend with other fabrics to lend wrinkle resistance. It is not the easiest fabric to remove stains from!

Rayon: Rayon holds its colour and shape best when it’s dry cleaned but you can hand wash it in cold water with a mild detergent. Because it’s not extremely colourfast, wash it alone and then iron it when it’s slightly damp to help it retain its form.

Clients will have a variety of equipment in their home for laundering. The tables below should be a useful guide to the different cycles available on each machine. Some machines may have more cycles than those listed below but these are the basic ones that most machines will have:

Washing Machine Cycles

Economy: An economy cycle uses less water and is better for the environment. Check with the client if they prefer this cycle for general washing. It is not recommended for heavily soiled clothing.

Short or speed cycles: Most washing machines have a short cycle wash. This short cycle is a good way to wash clothes that are only slightly dirty or that have a lot of embellishments on them that should be washed gently. If washing delicate or cotton fabrics, you can use the short cycle and use cold water to avoid damage or shrinkage.

Regular: The regular wash cycle will agitate the clothing and spin it at a faster rate of speed than the shorter cycle. The regular wash cycle is good to use on clothes that are dirty or that are thick and sturdy. This cycle works well with jeans, t-shirts, bedding, towels and any other items that don’t need any delicate treatment.

Permanent: The permanent press cycle is a bit easier on fabrics. For many average loads with clothing that is not extra dirty, the permanent press washing cycle is a good choice. This washing cycle cools clothes before they enter the spinning cycle. This is what prevents certain fabrics from getting creased or wrinkled during the washing process. It is particularly effective with synthetic fabrics and permanent press items. Permanent press is recommended for business clothes to prevent creasing.

Delicate: There are many items that can be washed in the delicate cycle. Items such as lingerie, items with lace, lightweight items, and fabrics that are loosely woven are all perfect for the delicate washing cycle. With delicate items, use cold water and a mild detergent. This cycle washes clothing more gently with slower agitation and spinning. It is the closest cycle to hand washing.

Soak: The soak cycle is used for heavily soiled clothing. This cycle helps rid the clothing of caked on mud and grass stains. You can also use this cycle if the client needs you to bleach the whites.

Additional Tips

Dirt can easily travel from one garment to another within the washing machine, so for heavily soiled clothes it is best to wash them separately.

• You may also have a load of delicates, such as bras, lacy garments or items with embellishments. These items should be washed using a delicates bag.
• Always check pockets for valuables, money, tissues etc.
• Remove belts and accessories and unbundle socks.
• Do not overfill the tub! There must be room for the clothing to circulate freely otherwise the detergent will not be distributed evenly and the load will not get a thorough cleaning or rinsing.
• Always use the recommended amount of detergent, too much will leave a residue on the clothes and too little will not clean properly.

Some articles of clothing require hand washing. Garments will last longer if they’re not constantly subjected to the rigors of the washing machine so you may be asked by clients to hand wash certain items if they want to extend the life of the clothing.

How to Hand Wash:

1. Fill the sink with the correct water temperature as listed on the clothing label. Keep in mind that some articles of clothing require cold water while some can be washed in warm water. Add the detergent as directed and dissolve.
2. Put your clothing in the soapy water and thoroughly wet it. If it’s stained, you may want to let it soak for a while.
3. Knead the clothing with your hands in the water for a few minutes, much as you would knead bread. Hand wring your clothing and set aside.
4. Unplug the sink, drain and start the water running. Rinse your clothing until the water runs clear, not soapy.
5. Wring out and hang out to dry or lay flat on a dry towel to avoid stretching.

Tumble Drying:

Make sure that you have selected the appropriate cycle according to the load. The dry cycles usually have different temperature settings, which make the cycle selection step an important one. You don’t want to shrink or damage clothing because you haven’t followed the client’s direction relating to cycle settings. Do not overload the dryer or clothes will not dry properly.

Basic dryers usually have a long timed cycle for heavier loads and a shorter cycle that has a lower heat and a cooling down period, for permanent press clothing. This cool-down period reduces the presence of wrinkles and is ideal for clothing that has a polyester content, or for lighter fabrics.

It is also important to not overfill the dryer. There must be room for the clothing to circulate freely in order to dry properly and to avoid creasing. Always check the labels to see what drying temperature is recommended. Lastly, remember to always empty the lint filter.

Some dryers will have temperature settings based on fabric type and others will just have the basics. The guide below is just a basic guide:

Low: Select the delicate or low temperature setting on your dryer for lingerie and sheer fabrics, as well as garments that are labelled to dry on low heat, such as stretchy garments containing spandex.

Medium: Is often called the permanent press cycle. Select medium heat for permanent press garments, sheets, T-shirts and most garments made with average-weight material of nylon, acrylic or polyester or blends of these.

High Select: high heat for non-permanent press items such as cotton undies and socks. Also select the high setting for towels and heavyweight garments, such as jeans.

Line Drying:

A great benefit of drying clothes outside is the UV rays from the sun actually help kill bacteria in the clothes. If you don’t want the clothes to fade just hang them in the shade or inside out. By hanging clothes to dry you will expand their life span by quite a bit. Remember to remove the lint from the dryer after every load as this can cause house fires.

Tips for line drying:

Dark coloured clothes – turn inside out to prevent fading

Socks – hang in pairs (faster to pair them when taking off the line)

Jeans – hang by the cuff/hem. Allows air-flow and therefore dries faster

Business shirts – hang by the hem or on a hanger

T-shirts – hang from bottom with approximately 15cm turnover, or peg under arms. Best to hang on a hanger to prevent peg marks

Shorts – hang by the waistband. Allows air-flow and therefore dries faster

Towels – hang from the hem with approximately 20cm turnover

Clothes Rack:

Clothing racks are handy because they can be moved to speed up the drying process. Place them outside on a sunny (but not windy) day. Inside the house, try putting them near a heater or air conditioner, as it will dry them faster. Don’t place clothes close enough to heaters to be a fire hazard. Using a clothes rack is an environmentally friendly alternative to using a dryer on a cool, rainy day.

Flat Drying:

Get a towel or a sheet and lay it on the floor or table. Place the garment on top of the towel or sheet and let it dry. Dry flat simply means to let the clothing article dry on a flat surface. Never hang clothing that reads flat dry as the item can easily end up stretched and out of shape.

1. Using a small brush (toothbrushes work well) dipped in hot soapy water, go around the door of the dishwasher taking care to get into the grooves and crevices of the rubber seal. Go over the inside of the door and scrub any obvious areas inside the dishwasher that may have stuck-on food, such as out of reach corners.
2. Pull the bottom rack out and examine the drain area. Wipe around it to be sure there are no hard chunks that can plug the drain, cause damage to the pump or scratch dishes.
3. Using a clean wet sponge or dishcloth, wipe the cleaning solution from the gasket and the door.
4. Use a recommended dishwasher cleaner or place a dishwasher-safe cup filled with plain white vinegar on the top rack of the empty dishwasher. Using the hottest water available, run the dishwasher through a cycle. The vinegar will help to wash away the loose greasy grime, sanitizes, and helps remove the musty odour.

Bicarbonate of soda is also effective at freshening and brightening your dishwasher. Just sprinkle a cupful around the bottom of the tub and run it through a short but complete cycle using the hottest water. Bicarb is also helpful in removing stains.

Watch: "How to clean your dishwasher"

1. Completely empty the fridge, take out all removable parts
2. Check for out of date items but make sure client is happy for you to decide. If not sure, leave
3. Either make a solution of 2 heaped spoonfuls of bicarb to half a cup of water, a few drops of dishwashing detergent and warm water or simply use a clean microfibre cloth
4. Wipe out the fridge, shelves and door
5. Wash any drawers in the sink
6. Remember to wash the rubber around the edge as this can become mouldy if left
7. Dry with a microfiber cloth or soft towel
8. Replace the items neatly
9. Store an opened box of bicarb of soda in the refrigerator and freezer to help eliminate odours. Replace every three months or so, although the box may need replacing sooner if it begins to absorb too many odours. Date the box to remember when to replace.

Watch: "How to cean your fridge"

Note: Limescale build up will take longer to boil, wastes electricity and the element can burn out

1. To remove limescale, add 50/50 white vinegar and water to below the maximum level. If you fill too close to the maximum line it will boil over and possibly cause damage. Boil and leave for 1 hour
2. Alternatively you can use lemon juice instead of vinegar
3. Rinse the kettle about 5 times
4. Wash the kettle with water and detergent and dry off
5. Wipe over with olive oil if stainless steel

Watch: "How to remove limescale from a kettle"

1. Add a cup of water to a microwave safe bowl or a coffee mug that has a handle
2. If there are baked on food particles on the roof or walls, add a slice of lemon or a splash of white vinegar to the water
3. Cook on high for 3 minutes to remove odours and soften food stains
4. Leave to stand for 1 minute before carefully removing cup of water
5. Wipe out with mild detergent and water using microfibre or a soft towel

Watch: "How to clean your microwave easily and quickly"

Ask the client what type of oven they have and how they normally clean it.

Self Cleaning (pyrolytic) — has a self cleaning mode which you decide when to use. The pyrolytic cleaning process superheats the oven to approximately 500 degrees centigrade which burns off (carbonises) any deposits from baking, roasting and grilling. You are left with a perfectly clean oven and the residue of fine ash is easily removed with a damp cloth.

Continuous Cleaning (Textured) — has a special porcelain layer (texture) to prevent spills from clinging onto its surface. To clean it, all you need is to wipe occasionally with a hot soapy cloth. You do not need to use abrasive cleaners, scouring pads, or oven cleaners.

Green Method

• Make sure the oven is cold.
• Sprinkle bicarbonate of soda all over the bottom of the oven until it is covered with a 5mm layer. If you also need to clean the walls, mix up a paste and apply where needed. (Do not use on textured ovens)
• Using a clean spray bottle, spray with undiluted vinegar until the bicarbonate of soda is thoroughly damp, but not flooded.
• Every now and again dampen the bicarbonate of soda to stop it from drying out. Once it has set for as long as possible, the bicarbonate of soda can be effortlessly scooped out of the oven with a sponge, taking all the grime with it. Use a damp cloth to remove any residue.

Oven cleaner — For aged or well used ovens, use a specialised oven cleaner. Always use gloves and a mask and remember to be careful with spillage. Follow the instruction label for the most effective clean.

Oven racks — Use large bin bags to lay racks on outside or in a large tub. Sprinkle racks with a liberal amount of laundry or washing powder and water. Leave for as long as possible to soak before wiping clean.

Watch: "How to clean your oven"

Depending how dirty the toaster may be, there are 3 levels of clean you can do. Always start at level 1 and work through to level 3 as required.

Level 1

1. Ensure the toaster is cooled and unplugged. Empty all crumbs by pulling out the bottom crumb tray and then gently shake the toaster upside down. If necessary, wash the crumb tray in warm soapy water.
2. Taking a slightly damp microfibre cloth, wipe the outside of the toaster and the knobs or buttons. Again, if there are any stuck on stains, you may need to use warm soapy water to remove them.
3. Dry the outside with a dry microfibre cloth. Replace the clean crumb tray. If your toaster is Stainless Steel, clean following the grain of the stainless steel and use a tiny amount of olive oil and buff to give it that extra shine.

Level 2 – If there are brown stuck on stains that haven’t lifted, make a paste of Bicarb and water. Rub the paste on with a toothbrush or microfibre cloth. Wipe off with a damp cloth to remove any residue and buff for a shiny finish. CAUTION: This paste will remove any writing on the toaster. Be careful to not remove.

Level 3 – Make a paste of Bicarb and vinegar and repeat as per level 2.

Always consult the client first so warranty is not voided.

Washing machine – Start by mixing 1⁄4 cup bicarb to 1⁄4 cup water and adding this to the detergent container of the machine. Add 1 cup of vinegar to the inside of the machine and run a full cycle on the hottest setting available. Wipe all over exterior with damp cloth. Pay attention to clean soap dispenser and seals around the door or lid. Use an old toothbrush to get into all areas.

Dryer – remove lint with vacuum, wipe exterior with damp cloth and dry off.

Checklist:

• shower recess, fittings & glass
• toilets
• clean toilet brush holder/brush
• vanity top (all items removed & replaced)
• basin & vanity unit
• bathtub window sill
• tiles & fittings
• mirrors
• hard floor
• empty bin
• door frames & light switches

Bathrooms are usually one of the common tasks you will face in clients homes. As well as the checklist above remember the following:

• Vacuum first to remove hair and dust
• Lift bath mats to remove hair and dust before wet cleaning
• Spray shower, basin and bath, leaving the cleaner to work while you clean other areas of the bathroom. Make sure you have adequate ventilation.
• Remove everything from the vanity top and wipe down, dust personal items and dry off vanity
• Scrub shower and bath, paying close attention to edges and grouting; soap holders and taps.
• Use a squeegee for any glass panels or doors in the shower.
• Pay attention to taps and plug holes, buff taps to shine. Ensure no hair left in plug holes and drains
• Clean mirror, check for smears when done, a dirty mirror will immediately give the impression that the room hasn’t been cleaned properly
• Scrub and disinfect inside of toilet, and don’t forget under the seat and all other nooks and crannies
• Wipe down outside of toilet and toilet cistern, flusher buttons, tile behind the toilet etc.
• Clean the toilet brush holder
• Leave a drop of disinfectant, tea tree oil, or eucalyptus oil in the bottom of the toilet brush container to keep it smelling fresh.
• Fill up toilet roll container if possible
• Empty bathroom bins and reline bin if necessary
• Vacuum floor area
• Don’t forget to vacuum behind the door
• If time permits dust over skirting boards too
• Dress the room by neatening towels and face washers
• Lastly mop tiles, don’t have the mop too wet or it will leave streaks
• Take care to mop right into the corners and behind the door
• Remember to put the bath mats back down providing the floor is thoroughly dry.

Watch "How to clean tile grout"

Clients will provide products to use, but if not successful, below are some other options.

How to clean a glass shower screen

You may find that over time a glass shower screen starts looking duller and duller with a murky colouring or spots that you simply cannot get rid of.

A shower can be perfectly spotless but if there is still a residue build-up on the screen, then this can leave the shower looking dirty and uninviting. CLR is an option but if you don’t want to try the harsher shower screen chemicals, you are in luck.

There are several more natural cleaning solutions that you could suggest to the client that may help clean your glass shower screen without posing health risks. Always check with the client as some screens have been treated.

Fabric Softener: Add one cup of fabric softener to one litre of warm water to get rid of that residue and soap scum on a glass shower screen. Simply wipe the mixture on the door and then rinse it off with warm water. If you happen to have a dryer sheet handy, then wipe the dryer sheets along the shower door. This can also remove the soap scum.

White Vinegar: Vinegar is the one item that every household should have. It is effective and safe in cleaning a number of different things and a glass shower screen is no different. Simply put white vinegar into a spray bottle and spray onto the shower door. Scrub the mixture onto the screen with a non- scratch sponge, damp cloth or shower pad before rinsing off with warm water. Make sure you label the spray bottle so that you know what product is in there.

White Magic Eraser: This is truly magic! They are quick, you don’t have to scrub too hard, and best of all no yucky chemical smells. A White Magic Eraser is great at removing soap scum from any surface in the bathroom however avoid using on marble or granite.

Bicarbonate of Soda: Bicarb of soda is another magic cleaning solution that will not only clean the shower but also deodorise the bathroom. Wet the shower screen before wiping the screen with baking soda on a cloth. You can expect a paste to form on the door when you mix the baking soda with the water. Rinse off with warm water.

Baking Soda and Lemon Juice: Mix baking soda and pure lemon juice into a paste and apply. Leave for about 30 minutes then wipe off and rinse. To prevent this from happening again just make sure you move the shower head and rinse off as much off the shower walls as you can. Always dry off the shower to prevent water stains.

Watch: "How to clean a shower in 60 seconds"

To try removing a hard-water ring from the inside the toilet, try CLR or pour white vinegar into the bowl and let set for an hour. Scrub clean and flush.

Chlorine bleach is an effective alternative to commercial toilet-bowl cleaners. Add 1/4 cup to the toilet bowl, let stand a few minutes, brush with a toilet brush, then flush. This will disinfect as well. Never add bleach to a septic toilet.

Checklist:

• Beds
• Mirrors
• Window sills
• Carpets/rugs Door frames & light switches
• Hard floors
• Overall appearance
• Furniture & lampshades

As well as the checklist above remember the following:

• Remake bed
• If client wants linen changed on bed, strip bed first
• Take off linen and put on fresh linen in the same order. Dress the bed with cushions etc.
• Remove ornaments, lamps, etc. from bedside tables, and shelves. Dust under and around, and replace ornaments where they belong
• Clean any mirrors in the room, a dirty mirror will immediately give the impressions that the room hasn’t been cleaned at all
• Lift any rugs before vacuuming. If too large, roll up the rug
• Vacuum floor area if time permits, dust over skirting boards too
• Don’t forget to vacuum behind the door
• Replace rugs where they belong

Checklist:

• Cupboard fronts
• Small appliances
• Sinks & taps
• Window sills
• Bench tops & splashback
• Walls, door frames & light switches
• Hard floors
• Front of oven, fridge, dishwasher & microwave
• Overall appearance

As well as the checklist above remember the following:

• Remove small appliances before cleaning the worktops
• Most appliances and cupboards in a kitchen should only need a wipe over with hot soapy water and dried off with a microfibre cloth
• If only spot cleaning, use a spray and dry microfibre cloth
• Glass splashbacks can get very greasy and even after polishing can still look streaky. After cleaning try using white vinegar, wash off & dry.
• Remember to wipe over the cords on appliances as well as wiping appliances.
• If cleaning greasy extractor fans, be careful as they can be brittle due to continual exposure to heat. If brittle, ask Client to remove
• Scrub kitchen sink. Pay attention to plug holes, dry off and buff for a nice shiny finish
• Don’t forget to empty bin, wipe down and reline
• Do not use scourers on Stainless Steel appliances, sinks or splashbacks unless instructed to do so by the client. Use a soft cloth and neutral cleanser, rinse and then dry. Always work in the direction of the grain

Checklist:

• Furniture
• Picture frames
• Window sills
• Carpets/rugs Ornaments
• Lamp shades
• Door frames & light switches
• Newspapers, magazines & books

As well as the checklist above, remember the following:

• Remove everything from tables and shelving – dry wipe or wet wipe and dry off, and replace all items where they belong
• Take care if you wet wipe the surfaces to dry off and in a lot of cases buff for a nice shiny finish or will leave a streaky finish
• Time permitting, remove cushions from sofa, vacuum up dust, dirt and crumbs, replace neatly
• Dress the sofa by placing scatter cushions nice and neatly
• Neaten any magazines or things that may be on coffee tables
• Neaten dining chairs against dining table
• Lift scatter rugs from floor before you vacuum
• Vacuum floor area, take care to vacuum right into the corners. Replace rugs where they belong

Checklist:

• Wipe picture frames
• Window sills
• Carpets/rugs Door frames & light switches
• Skirting boards
• Overall appearance

Checklist:

• Washing
• Outdoor furniture
• Empty bins
• Ironing
• Patio, landing & front entrance
• Room dressing & finishing touches

Aluminium can be found on fixtures including doorframes, windows and handles.

You can clean aluminium with a mild detergent like Morning Fresh and water. Use a soft cloth to wipe over until clean. When it comes to aluminium windows and doors it is recommended that you vacuum the tracks on a regular basis.

Acrylic can be found on fixtures including benchtops and bathtubs.

Acrylic surfaces are manufactured from a natural mineral refined from bauxite and blended with pure acrylic resin. Acrylic solid surfaces are suitable for endless applications around the home including kitchens, bathrooms and laundries. The non-porous nature of acrylic provides a surface that no stain can penetrate – providing a durable benchtop that is hygienic and easy to clean. As long as you don’t use any harsh chemicals in the process there is very little risk of damaging acrylic surfaces. Clean with mild detergent and water. Use a soft cloth to buff dry.

Avoid: Solvents as these often contain chemicals that can peel paint and remove adhesives and they can damage acrylic bathtubs. Stay away from any aggressive cleaning products as they can scratch.

Cane or Wicker can be found on fixtures including ceiling fans. It can also be found on furniture such as chairs and tables.

The term wicker describes grasses, or plants that are woven into a myriad of furniture. Rattan, willow, reed, and bamboo are all types of wicker. Beyond weekly care like dusting or removing light surface dirt or spills with a damp cloth, wicker benefits from periodic cleaning with a vacuum cleaner. Use the soft, long-bristle dusting tool. Then prepare a small bucket of sudsy water (any mild detergent will do) and, with a sponge or soft scrub brush, work the suds into the crevices of the wicker, then dry with a soft towel. Turn chairs and tables over and vacuum any cobwebs and dust that might be underneath. Sponge clean the wicker on the underside, taking care not to soak any wood or structural parts as the wicker can easily be a breeding ground for mould if left damp.

Brick can be found both internally and externally within the home.

If the bricks are sealed it will be much easier to keep them clean. Vacuum regularly, and occasionally damp mop with plain water to remove soil. When more heavily soiled, the bricks may have to be cleaned using a mild detergent solution such as Morning Fresh. Rinse them well, and wipe dry for greater sheen.

Avoid: Acids, strong soaps or abrasives.

Tiles, Kettles, Toasters and Cooktops can all be Ceramic.

Needs little more than a good wipe with a soft, wet cotton cloth to maintain and keep their appearance clean. For more stubborn stains a little dishwashing liquid will come in handy. Remove mould or mildew with a mould removing product such as Exit Mould, or green method of Oil of Cloves using a soft toothbrush to scrub away any excess and rinse well. Avoid: Never allow vinegar, bleach, ammonia, lemon or other harsh acid based cleaners to remain on the ceramic surface or it can be permanently ruined. Never use pumice, steel wool, stiff brushes or scouring powders because they can scratch the tile surface.

Cooktops can be made of Ceramic Glass.

Most glass cooktops come with a metal scraper. This should remove any baked on food. Cerapol is one of the most popular cleaners on the market for this appliance and is usually rubbed all over the appliance with a soft cloth and then rubbed off with a wet cloth. You can spray some diluted vinegar on to the glass to bring up the shine.

Avoid: Never use a scourer on glass or it will scratch it.

Blenders, taps and vents can be made of Chrome.

The best way to keep chrome fixtures or appliances clean is to maintain them regularly. It is very easy to damage chrome, so it is very important to clean it properly to maintain its shiny appearance. Simply clean chrome with either diluted vinegar (always rinse) or detergent and water and then buff with a dry polishing cloth. You can also clean Chrome or Stainless Steel by using a paste of 3 parts baking soda to one part water. Rub the paste onto the surface, then rinse with clean water and dry with a soft cloth.

Flooring can be made of Cork.

Sweep or vacuum floor to remove dirt that can scratch the surface of the cork. If necessary, mix a small amount of mild detergent to the water. Wring your mop out as much as possible to the point of being dry to avoid excess water on the floor. Like timber floors, cork floors can swell and warp if too much water is used.

Avoid: Vacuums with brushes that can scratch the cork over time and you should avoid bleach products, steam mops and methylated spirits. Also, ammonia based products or any product with abrasive particles, as these will scratch the cork.

Cooktops and Slow Cookers can be made of Enamel.

Use a mild detergent or dish soap and water with a soft cloth. Enamel can stain, so advise the client it’s important to wipe up spills right away. Be especially careful of acidic spills like vinegar, tomato products, lemon juice, and other citrus products as they can eat into the enamel causing it to chip away.

Avoid: Don’t use abrasive items that can scratch enamel or acid based products.

Floating Timber floorboards is a common form of flooring and comes in various shades.

Daily cleaning can be done with either a vacuum cleaner or a smooth floor broom. Any sand or dirt should be immediately removed because they can cause scratches and damage the floor surface.

Whenever necessary, the floor surface can also be cleaned with a damp mop or a special polish to remove stains, grease, shoe tracks etc.

Avoid: Never use steel wool on timber floors, as it will leave scratches. Also avoid using a steam mop on floating timber floorboards unless directed by the client.

Splashbacks, toasters, kettles, windows, mirrors and cabinets can all be Glass.

For standard glass surfaces like glass toasters or kettles, you can use products like Windex, water and dishwashing liquid or white vinegar with a soft cloth. For windows tinted on the inside, only use soapy water.

Glass can be used to make tiles and splash-backs in the kitchen and bathroom. Dust the glass surface before cleaning to remove any particles before you wet clean. For best results use a streak free glass cleaner. Don’t use harsh powders or scourers as they will scratch the glass. Avoid the use of spirits or solvents as they can cloud the glass. The wrong cleaning tools can scratch the surface of any glass surface. You can clean the glass by using a spray window cleaner or by making your own formula of half water and half white vinegar. You will need to consult the client on their preference, as the client could prefer a microfibre option where only a cloth is required.

Avoid: Abrasives, Solvents or Methylated Spirits when cleaning. Avoid using paper towels, face tissue or cheap rags because they will all leave a trail of lint behind.

Watch: "How to clean windows and mirrors streak-free"

Granite can be found in both benchtops and tiles.

Although Granite is a super tough stone, it needs to be treated with care. A specialised neutral cleaner, a damp microfiber or a non-scratch cleaning pad or sponge are the best methods of cleaning a benchtop or surface.

Never use strong chemicals such as furniture cleaners, oven cleaners, bleach and chemicals with high alkaline pH levels or similar aggressive substances. As with any other product, clean regularly. Do not use abrasive cleaners e.g. Scouring powders or creams, as they will scratch the stone. Wipe the surface dry with a soft cloth after cleaning. Use a specialised product for stone surfaces like granite.

If the granite floor has a sealer on it, follow the instructions provided by the client or sealant manufacturer before you attempt to clean the granite floor. If the granite floor is highly polished, cleaning it is just as important as buffing it regularly. When mopping, use a microfibre mop to clean your granite. Granite does not respond well to things acidic, like lemons and wine and especially vinegar as it can remove the seal and cause water to seep in or scratching. Clean with warm water and a mild dishwashing liquid e.g. Morning Fresh Dishwashing Detergent.

Avoid: Acids like vinegar or lemon, abrasives, detergents, bleach, ammonia, methylated spirits or steam mopping the floor.

Cupboards, doors and benches can be made from Laminate.

Ensure cloths are made of non-abrasive material to prevent scratching of the laminate surface. The scratches on a laminate surface not only ruin the countertop’s finish but also permit the penetration of moisture. This in turn leads to growth of mould, mildew, bacteria and discoloration. The cleanser you use to clean a laminate surface should be free of any harsh chemicals like alkaline and acids as they can burn the surface. A damp cloth or mop and a little bit of mild detergent is all you usually need for laminate.

Avoid: Acids like vinegar or lemon on laminate.

Lounges and Chairs can be made from Leather.

Leather furniture really benefits from a good weekly dusting. The soft brush attachment on the vacuum cleaner makes a handy leather duster or just run a clean cotton cloth over the furniture. Furniture in high traffic areas benefit from a good thorough cleaning at least once every season change to help remove body oils, perspiration and general soiling. Use a soft cotton cloth dampened with a good leather cleaner provided by the client. Run the cloth all over the piece of furniture paying special attention to the skin contact areas like the arm rests and inside backs. Follow with a good leather conditioner made especially for finished leather furniture.

Marble can be found in the home in Showers, Benches and Flooring.

When cleaning marble surfaces, do not use any abrasive household cleaners on it. Marble is a substance that scratches easily. Marble can be permanently damaged by exposure to strong chemicals and solvents. Use a specialised neutral cleaning product for stone surfaces like marble or a microfibre cloth.

Marble is very delicate, it is a very soft stone and it is much softer than granite. It is also highly porous, so is very easily damaged by acids. It’s also prone to develop water stains or spots, such as marks left by drinking glasses, or water spots after mopping. Clean marble tiles by sweeping the floor often with a soft bristled broom or vacuuming to pick up any loose dirt. Avoid vinegar as the acid in vinegar can damage the surface. If you’re not using a special marble cleaner supplied by the client, use warm water and a soft cloth. It is important to dry the surface off thoroughly after cleaning to avoid leaving any watermarks on the floor.

Avoid: Don’t use Acids like vinegar, lemon, tomato or orange juice, abrasives, detergents, bleach, ammonia, methylated spirits or steam mop the floor.

Watch: "How to clean marble"

Chairs, Tables and Lamps can be made from Metal.

This type of furniture is made of various metals like wrought iron, aluminium and chromium plated, lacquered or stainless steel. The metal surfaces have good resistance to dirt and liquids, but prolonged exposure to water can stain aluminium and stainless steel and cause chromium plated or lacquered steel surfaces to rust. Dusting should be done with a soft, cotton cloth or towel. At times, wipe with mild detergent and water then dry completely using a dry cloth.

Parquetry is easy identifiable and is a type of flooring.

You can sweep parquetry flooring to avoid dust build up. Use a vacuum cleaner to remove dirt and proceed by using a clean damp mop, which has been thoroughly wrung out. Do not use abrasive detergents including chlorine based liquids and vinegar solution to clean parquetry floors.

Parquetry floors are sealed and should be treated the same as wooden floors.

Avoid: Acids like vinegar or lemon, abrasives, detergents, bleach, ammonia, methylated spirits or steam mop the floor.

Doors, Windows and Walls can all be Painted Surfaces.

To care for these properly, you need to know what kind of paint is on the surface, which will determine how to clean it. Firstly you can brush cobwebs and dust from the wall with a soft-bristled brush or duster. Most painted wall surfaces are washable and can be cleaned with mild detergent and water but refer to the client before wetting the surface.

Clean TV or computer screens only if instructed by the client.

Lightly wipe the screen with a dry and clean microfibre cloth. Microfibre is a miracle of modern technology; put it to good use. No paper towels, no kitchen towels, no household rags; only microfibre should touch your screen. For stubborn dust that won’t blow off the screen and the occasional fingerprint, a simple pass with a clean and dry microfibre cloth is usually sufficient. Make sure the microfibre cloth is clean and holds no dirt or chemicals that can damage the screen.

When wiping the screen, always avoid making circular “buffing” motions. Clean with a slow and light touch moving in as broad a motion as you can either left to right or up and down across the screen. Although the microfibre should pose little to no risk to the screen, by avoiding cleaning in small circular motions you avoid the risk of creating buffed out spots or marks on the surface of the screen. Light pressure and wide movements are the safest.

We cannot stress enough that you should be gentle; pressing too hard on the screen could damage the pixels within.

Walls, Cornices and Ceilings are made of Plaster.

Use a duster or brush attachment on the vacuum cleaner to get rid of any dust or cobwebs from the plaster. If required, spot marks can be removed using a soft cloth and some dishwashing detergent.

Blenders, Kettles, Toasters, Chairs, Tables and Air-conditioning Units can be made of Plastic or Resin.

Plastic or Resin needs little more than a good wipe with a soft, damp cloth to maintain and keep their appearance clean. Plastics in furniture are strong, but can be scratched, or dented by hard impacts, and damaged by excessive heat. Some plastics can also be damaged by solvents. Most can be cleaned with mild detergent (dishwashing liquid) and water, rinsed, and wiped dry. Read labels of cleaning products to be sure they are safe for plastics, or the specific type of plastic to be cleaned.

Avoid: Abrasive cleaners like scouring powder, as they will scratch the plastic/resin surfaces.

Polished Concrete is a type of flooring.

Dust mopping or damp mopping with a neutral cleaner is all you need to keep the surface clean and shiny.

Avoid: Any type of bleach detergent as this can break down the sealer or polish. Avoid acid based products such as vinegar or ammonia or any type of abrasive cleaning as this can scratch or lift the sealant from off the floor. Unless instructed by the client, do not use a steam mop.

Polished Timber is a type of flooring.

Polished timber floors are protected by a sealer, which penetrates the wood pores, and a coating of polyurethane, shellac, or varnish. As with all floors, vacuum or sweep frequently to keep dirt from being ground into the floor’s finish. Vacuum with a soft brush attachment to avoid scratching.

Using a flat microfibre mop, use lukewarm water and a neutral cleanser in a bucket or sink. Avoid vinegar as this will damage the seal. Ensure that you wring out the mop as much as possible before using – too much water can make the floorboards swell so you want a damp mop not a soggy one! Follow the grain of the timber when mopping. Never use hot water or a steam mop on floorboards as this can damage the sealant and seep into the timber. Dry timber floors with a clean towel to remove excess moisture.

Avoid: Applying too much water to any floor as this can make it slippery and warp the timber. Also avoid using a steam mop on timber floorboards.

Watch: "How to clean polished timber floors"

Door Handles, Cooktops, Wash Basins Toilets and Tiles can be made of Porcelain.

You will want to use gentle soap when cleaning porcelain. Regular dishwashing liquid mixed in water will be very effective and not harm the finish. Also use a soft cloth or sponge.

Baking soda and water is effective on stains caused by dirt. Apply the paste with a soft cloth and work it in until the stain disolves. Rinse off the remaining paste with water and buff dry.

To clean polished porcelain floors, use warm water and buff dry. Buffing will remove any streaks and is the most effective way to achieve a great result.

Wash painted or decorated porcelain surfaces like wash basins with a very mild dish detergent. Rinse in warm water; dry with a soft towel or microfibre cloth. Porcelain is a porous material and is highly susceptible to stains when used as a surface in toilets. Toilet freshening tablets, chemical cleaners and hard water can also leave unsightly stains.

Vinegar is often described as an all-purpose cleaner and can be effective in breaking down these types of stains. Pour undiluted vinegar into the toilet bowl and let it work for 5 minutes. Use the toilet brush to scrub the surface of the toilet and then flush to rinse.

Avoid: Using Bleach or Ammonia.

Slate can be found as flooring and also on internal and external walls as a feature.

Warm water is an option that some find most reliable. The important thing to remember is that any cleanser must not contain acids, as they will break down the slate, causing costly repair or replacement. One of the ways that slate can be damaged is when it is scratched. Sweep the floor as often as possible to remove dust and dirt and clean regularly using water. Morning Fresh is a neutral cleaner and perfect for slate.

Avoid: Vinegar or lemon, abrasives, detergents, bleach, ammonia, methylated spirits or steam mop.

Stoves, Fridges, Toasters, Kettles, Railings, Ceiling Fans, Windows and Doors can be Stainless Steel.

Day to day cleaning should involve nothing more than using soap and water. While cleaning stainless steel always follow the grain. Never wipe in circular motions as this can cause marks on the surface to appear. Avoid using abrasive or corrosive cleaning products, as they will scratch the stainless steel.

White vinegar dabbed onto a damp cloth will bring back the shine of stainless steel while protecting the coating of the steel. Prevent fingerprints from sticking by using a light coating of olive oil or baby oil and buff up. Make sure you wipe the surface thoroughly to prevent staining and spotting. Towel dry to prevent water spots which can be caused by minerals in water.

Avoid: Scrubbing or using scourers on Stainless Steel.

Watch: "how to clean stainless steel"

Bench tops can be made of Stone.

CaesarStone and Corian are 2 types of common stone surfaces, and very similar in appearance; CaesarStone is resistant to all kinds of cracks, chips, scratches and stains. However, like most materials, excessive force, pressure or heat may cause damage to the surface. Due to CaesarStone’s non-porous qualities, normal cleaning with a damp cloth will keep the CaesarStone surface looking shiny and new.

Use a non-abrasive cleaner or a specialised product for stone surfaces like CaesarStone and Corian to avoid dulling the surface’s shine. By nature Corian is easy to clean because it is a non-porous surfacing material made from natural minerals and acrylic resin. As a general rule when caring for the Corian surface use soapy water along with a damp sponge or cloth. Rinse with water and buff with a dry microfibre cloth. The Vileda range of cleaning products are recommended by Corian.

Avoid: Excessive force, pressure or heat and abrasive products

Terrazzo is a type of stone and can be found in tiles in the home including the bathroom.

Keep dust off the floor as dirt is abrasive so regularly sweep the floor either with a vacuum, broom or dust mop. Use a neutral PH floor cleaner such as Morning Fresh or one made especially for terrazzo floors to mop terrazzo floors.

Travertine is a form of limestone, and is related to marble.

Vacuum or wipe the Travertine to remove loose dust and grit from the surface. Damp clean using a microfibre mop or cloth dampened with warm water (no chemicals are necessary when using good-quality microfibre). The mop or cloth will ‘grab’ the surface and lift off most daily grime. Use some pressure to work the microfibre — floating it lightly over the surface will not be so productive! If the Travertine is unfilled use a soft brush (such as a toothbrush) and a small amount of warm water to scrub inside the pock marks. Once the water has dissolved the dirt, use a towel to soak the water out of the pock mark.

Avoid: Like marble, Travertine is very porous, never use acidic cleaners like vinegar.

Cupboards can be made of Two Pack.

Two Pack polyurethane painted surfaces will withstand normal wear and tear but can be damaged by scratching if you clean them with a scourer. Streaky marks sometimes show on dark colour two pack surfaces after cleaning. Glass cleaner should wipe them away. Good old soapy water will deal with greasy marks.

Avoid: Abrasives or scourers.

Unfinished Concrete can be found in outdoor areas or garages.

Unfinished concrete is porous and requires special effort. Concrete collects dust like other surfaces so treat them like other floors, sweep, vacuum or mop them. For an unsealed concrete floor, sweep up the loose surface dirt, and then wash it with a strong all-purpose cleaning solution.

Avoid: Acids like vinegar or lemon, abrasives, detergents, bleach, ammonia, methylated spirits or steam mop.

Upholstery can be made from fabrics such as suede, vinyl, cotton, silk, linen, polyester, nylon, rayon, wool and velvet.

Upholstered furniture can be a breeding ground for bacteria, dust mites and other creepy-crawlies like bed bugs, which are once again becoming a problem after decades of dormancy. Vacuum upholstered furniture.

Avoid: Rubbing or scrubbing fabric.

Vinyl is a type of flooring.

Remove dust, sand and grit particles frequently by sweeping or vacuuming. Don’t use a vacuum with a power head as it may scratch the floor. A product that you might be asked to use on vinyl or linoleum floors could be Ajax Professional Floor Cleaner.

Avoid: Steam mops, scrubbing, abrasive cleaners, soaps, paste waxes, or solvents.

Desks, Chairs, Tables, Wardrobes, Shelves, Lamps, Doors and Skirting Boards can be made of Wood.

Not all wood is the same. It can be oiled, painted, polished or some other type of specialty wood. As a result the client is likely to have a unique product to suit the type of wood surface. Certain furniture oils work best on specific woods. Lemon Oil works best on light woods, like maple or light oak. Red Oil beautifies cherry wood. Old English Oil gives a rich glow to mahogany. Liquid Gold can be used with wonderful results on all wood.

Most wood surfaces are vulnerable to vinegar, which is acidic enough to dissolve the glue holding the pieces of wood together and cause the surface to crack along its glue joints. Apart from polishing wooden furniture you can use a damp cloth and then thoroughly dry and buff which gives a good result.

Avoid: Acids like vinegar or lemon, abrasives, detergents, bleach, ammonia, methylated spirits or steam mop. Don’t use souring pads or any abrasive cleaners, as they will scratch the timber.